Two black wires into same terminal on light switch3-Way Light Switch, two blacks and a red?Wiring light switch with neutral (Z-wave)which wires to connect when installing a dimmer switch?Changing out programmable Light Switch, wire help needed!Replacing Bath Fan/Light Switch wiringWiring a ceiling fan and light switch with two three-cable wiresRemove and Cap Light Switch WiresHow should ground wires be handled when updating switch loops in an older home?Two dimmers (for two separate lights) in one junction box where there's only White, Black and Red coming out of the wallFlickering lights on same switch
UK Tourist Visa- Enquiry
Homology of the fiber
Writing in a Christian voice
Why is this tree refusing to shed its dead leaves?
What are the consequences of changing the number of hours in a day?
Do I need to convey a moral for each of my blog post?
What is it called when someone votes for an option that's not their first choice?
Single word to change groups
Hackerrank All Women's Codesprint 2019: Name the Product
Print last inputted byte
Isn't the word "experience" wrongly used in this context?
Recursively updating the MLE as new observations stream in
Turning a hard to access nut?
Why does Surtur say that Thor is Asgard's doom?
Nested Dynamic SOQL Query
What will the Frenchman say?
If I cast the Enlarge/Reduce spell on an arrow, what weapon could it count as?
When did hardware antialiasing start being available?
How do you justify more code being written by following clean code practices?
Weird lines in Microsoft Word
Can other pieces capture a threatening piece and prevent a checkmate?
Why do I have a large white artefact on the rendered image?
Print a physical multiplication table
What is the difference between something being completely legal and being completely decriminalized?
Two black wires into same terminal on light switch
3-Way Light Switch, two blacks and a red?Wiring light switch with neutral (Z-wave)which wires to connect when installing a dimmer switch?Changing out programmable Light Switch, wire help needed!Replacing Bath Fan/Light Switch wiringWiring a ceiling fan and light switch with two three-cable wiresRemove and Cap Light Switch WiresHow should ground wires be handled when updating switch loops in an older home?Two dimmers (for two separate lights) in one junction box where there's only White, Black and Red coming out of the wallFlickering lights on same switch
I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.
My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?
To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?
Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?
Thanks all!
electrical wiring
New contributor
add a comment |
I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.
My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?
To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?
Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?
Thanks all!
electrical wiring
New contributor
For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
add a comment |
I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.
My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?
To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?
Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?
Thanks all!
electrical wiring
New contributor
I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.
My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?
To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?
Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house?
Thanks all!
electrical wiring
electrical wiring
New contributor
New contributor
New contributor
asked 17 hours ago
user98434user98434
162
162
New contributor
New contributor
For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
add a comment |
For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.
It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.
From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.
To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.
Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.
add a comment |
It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.
If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.
1
Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
add a comment |
Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.
As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.
As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.
New contributor
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function()
var channelOptions =
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "73"
;
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
createEditor();
);
else
createEditor();
);
function createEditor()
StackExchange.prepareEditor(
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader:
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
,
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
);
);
user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f160063%2ftwo-black-wires-into-same-terminal-on-light-switch%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.
It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.
From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.
To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.
Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.
add a comment |
A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.
It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.
From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.
To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.
Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.
add a comment |
A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.
It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.
From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.
To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.
Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.
A and B are already connected. The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.
It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.
From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.
To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.
Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.
answered 16 hours ago
HarperHarper
73.9k448149
73.9k448149
add a comment |
add a comment |
It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.
If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.
1
Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
add a comment |
It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.
If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.
1
Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
add a comment |
It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.
If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.
It looks like wire B is your hot lead. Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C.
If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. Two wire nuts instead of one.
answered 16 hours ago
bibbib
31.2k95392
31.2k95392
1
Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
add a comment |
1
Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
1
1
Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
Thanks, apologies, as I didn't mention that I'm looking to replace the gray switch with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago
add a comment |
Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.
As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.
As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.
New contributor
add a comment |
Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.
As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.
As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.
New contributor
add a comment |
Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.
As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.
As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.
New contributor
Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer and you're golden. The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch.
As the first post says. You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet.
As you already know. You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.
New contributor
New contributor
answered 7 hours ago
Michael WondrashMichael Wondrash
1
1
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
user98434 is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f160063%2ftwo-black-wires-into-same-terminal-on-light-switch%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
For clarification, I'm trying to replace the gray switch (on the right) with a new Lutron switch.
– user98434
16 hours ago